Standing on a rugged hill in a park outside Sintra, the Palacio da Pena is an extraordinary confection, built by a cousin of Queen Victoria, Ferdinand of Saxe-Coburg-Gotha, consort of Queen Mari II of Portugal. The Pena Palace incorporates a monastery, built in 1500, and is itself am imitation of a medieval Portuguese castle, conceived, with the help of a Prussian engineer, Ludwig von Eschwege, in a 19th-century Romantic-Gothic style.
Generations of the Portuguese royal family spent the hot summer months at Sintra – the ‘glorious Eden’ of Lord Byron’s, ‘Childe Harold’s Pilgrimage’ – in the Sierra de Sintra near Lisbon. No wonder, then, that Sintra’s two palaces have something of the air of holiday homes about them, and though not as ornate and dream-like as Ludwig of bavaria’s fantastical creations, they have nothing of the atmosphere belonging to a place where great affairs of state were once settled.
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